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60年代 - 田园诗学·六十年代台湾印花亚麻法式玫瑰雏菊古董旗袍 | 1960s - Pastoral Poetics: A 1960s Taiwanese Vintage Cheongsam in Printed Linen with French Rose and Daisy Motif

60年代 - 田园诗学·六十年代台湾印花亚麻法式玫瑰雏菊古董旗袍 | 1960s - Pastoral Poetics: A 1960s Taiwanese Vintage Cheongsam in Printed Linen with French Rose and Daisy Motif

Regular price $510.00 CAD
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六十年代亚麻印花古董旗袍:法式田园与东方风韵的百年邂逅

此件旗袍以天然亚麻为骨,织纹疏朗中见筋骨,既承袭了传统旗袍对天然材质的苛求,更暗合六十年代台湾纺织业崛起时对“质感东方主义”的探索。台湾作为战后东亚纺织重镇,其亚麻处理工艺独步一时,通过“温水酵素洗”技法让面料在岁月中愈发柔软亲肤,却始终保有挺括度,堪称“会呼吸的古董布料”。

旗袍之花纹,堪称一部微缩的“花卉诗学”。底色以墨灰为纸,缀以粉白双色玫瑰、雏菊与不知名的野花,花型大小错落,疏密相间,正如《诗经·郑风》所言“山有扶苏,隰有荷华”的错落之美。粉色玫瑰娇柔,似《楚辞》中“沅有芷兮澧有兰”的婉转;白色雏菊素净,若唐寅《题菊花》“多少天涯未归客,尽借篱落看秋风”的孤高。

此袍之妙,在于将法式田园风的浪漫基因与旗袍的东方魂魄熔铸一体。短袖设计与及踝长度,恰是六十年代摩登女郎的标志性选择,而立领的挺括、斜襟的婉转、开衩的含蓄,仍是东方女性身体美学的诗意表达。

此袍存世之罕,首先在于“台湾产亚麻印花”的独特性。六十年代台湾纺织业虽盛,但专为旗袍开发的印花亚麻极为有限,加之法式田园风格在当时更属“舶来新趣”,双重属性使其产量本就稀少。历经六十余年,亚麻面料易受潮蛀,能保存如此完整者,百不存一。

当指尖抚过这匹亚麻,触摸的不仅是布料的肌理,更是一段跨越时空的文化对话。它曾见证台湾纺织业的黄金年代,也曾承载法式田园风登陆东方的时尚浪潮,更在今日成为我们与历史握手的媒介。此袍之美,美在花纹的诗意,美在风格的混血,更美在它作为“活着的文物”,让百年风华在当下依然生动。

 

🧺 Linen Rendezvous: A 1960s Vintage Linen Print Cheongsam – A Century's Encounter Between French Pastoralism and Oriental Charm

This cheongsam is structured with natural linen, its woven texture open yet firm, adhering to the traditional cheongsam's strict demands for natural materials while subtly aligning with the exploration of "textured Orientalism" during the rise of the Taiwanese textile industry in the sixties. Taiwan, as a post-war textile hub in East Asia, temporarily led in linen processing, using a "warm water enzyme wash" technique that allowed the fabric to become increasingly soft and comfortable with age, yet consistently maintaining its crisp structure. It truly is a "breathing antique fabric."

The floral pattern on the cheongsam is a miniature "poetry of botany." The dark gray base serves as the paper, adorned with pink and white bi-colored roses, daisies, and unnamed wild flowers. The flowers vary in size and density, scattered across the fabric, resembling the interspersed beauty described in the Classic of Poetry: "In the mountains are fú sū (hibiscus), on the wetlands are lotus flowers." The delicate pink rose is akin to the subtle grace of the phrases "the zhǐ in the Yuan River, the orchids in the Li River" from the Songs of Chu; the pure white daisy is like the aloof elegance in Tang Yin's poem: "How many wanderers who have not returned, gaze at the autumn wind leaning against the fence."

The genius of this robe lies in the fusion of the romantic gene of French pastoral style with the Oriental soul of the cheongsam. The short sleeve design and ankle length were signature choices for modern ladies in the sixties, yet the crispness of the stand collar, the subtle grace of the diagonal placket, and the reserved high slit remain the poetic expression of Oriental feminine body aesthetics.

The rarity of this robe stems first from the uniqueness of "Taiwanese linen print." Although the Taiwanese textile industry flourished in the sixties, printed linen specifically developed for cheongsams was extremely limited, and the French pastoral style was considered a "novel import" at the time. This dual attribute made its production inherently scarce. After more than sixty years, given that linen fabric is susceptible to moisture and pests, a piece preserved in such complete condition is one in a hundred.

When fingertips glide over this linen, one touches not only the texture of the fabric but also a cultural dialogue across time and space. It witnessed the golden age of the Taiwanese textile industry, carried the wave of French pastoral style landing in the East, and today serves as a medium for us to shake hands with history. The beauty of this robe lies in the poetry of its pattern, the hybridity of its style, and most profoundly, in its status as a "living artifact," allowing a century of elegance to remain vibrant in the present day.

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