{"product_id":"sold-3","title":"20年代 - 上世纪二十年代喷绘印花提花倒大袖古董旗袍 | 1920s - 1920s Antique Qipao with Spray-Print, Jacquard, and Bell Sleeves","description":"\u003ch3 data-path-to-node=\"4\"\u003e上世纪二十年代喷绘印花提花倒大袖古董旗袍\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e此件存世珍品，为上世纪二十年代初期典型倒大袖旗袍，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e乃近代女性服饰转型之实物见证。浅湖蓝地似一泓秋水，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e其上以喷绘印花工艺布满回纹与花卉纹样，辅以提花工艺显暗纹，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e尽显工艺之精妙。\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e旗袍主体纹样以回纹为骨，间以团花点缀，辅以几何纹为填充。\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e- 回纹：取《诗经·周颂·清庙》“於皇之轩，朱芾斯皇”中“轩”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e之回旋意象，寓“富贵不断头”之吉祥寓意，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e乃商周青铜器纹样在织物上的延续。\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e- 团花：近于“宝相花”形制，取《洛阳伽蓝记》“宝相庄严”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e之禅意，糅合了唐代团窠纹的饱满与宋代文人画的疏朗，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e或暗合当时“新生活运动”对传统美学的重构。\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e喷绘印花工艺（Spray Printing）于二十世纪初传入中国，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e其特点是色点朦胧如泼墨，较之传统木版印刷更具层次感。\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e此袍以喷绘技法施于提花织物之上，湖蓝底色中隐现橙褐斑点，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e似青花瓷釉中流淌的“铁锈斑”，与《陶说》中“釉色青翠，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e斑点如铁”之记载遥相呼应。提花部分则以平纹组织显几何暗纹，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e与喷绘的写意形成“刚柔并济”之视觉张力，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e此工艺组合在现存民国旗袍中极为罕见。\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e倒大袖（又称“喇叭袖”）为1920年代旗袍标志性元素，正如《\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e清稗类钞》所载“袖口宽逾二尺，转折如弓”，恰与当时上海《\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e妇女杂志》倡导的“舒展自如，合于卫生”之新女性审美相契合。\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e这件旗袍正如巫鸿所言“衣物是身体的历史”，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e其上每一道纹路皆是近代中国社会变革的缩影：\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e喷绘工艺见证着东西方技术交融，倒大袖折射着女性解放思潮，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e而斑驳的色点更似岁月刻下的年轮。其艺术价值不仅在于“美”，\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cwbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003e更在于“真”——以织物为载体，铭刻着一个时代的呼吸与脉搏。\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/wbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-path-to-node=\"3\"\u003e1920s Antique Qipao with Spray-Print, Jacquard, and Bell Sleeves\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-path-to-node=\"4\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-path-to-node=\"5\"\u003e\u003cb data-path-to-node=\"5\" data-index-in-node=\"0\"\u003eA Witness to Sartorial Transformation\u003c\/b\u003e This surviving treasure is a quintessential example of the \"Inverted Bell Sleeve\" (\u003ci data-path-to-node=\"5\" data-index-in-node=\"121\"\u003eDao Daxiu\u003c\/i\u003e) qipao from the early 1920s—a physical witness to the transformation of modern Chinese feminine attire. The pale lake-blue base resembles autumnal waters, adorned with intricate fretwork and floral motifs created through spray-printing, while jacquard weaving adds a layer of subtle hidden patterns, manifesting the zenith of early 20th-century textile craftsmanship.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-path-to-node=\"6\"\u003e\u003cb data-path-to-node=\"6\" data-index-in-node=\"0\"\u003eThe Symbolic Lexicon of Motifs\u003c\/b\u003e The pattern system utilizes the fret motif (\u003ci data-path-to-node=\"6\" data-index-in-node=\"75\"\u003eHuiwen\u003c\/i\u003e) as its skeleton, interspersed with floral medallions (\u003ci data-path-to-node=\"6\" data-index-in-node=\"137\"\u003eTuanhua\u003c\/i\u003e) and geometric fillers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-path-to-node=\"7\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp data-path-to-node=\"7,0,0\"\u003e\u003cb data-path-to-node=\"7,0,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\"\u003eFret Motif:\u003c\/b\u003e Inheriting the \"endless prosperity\" symbolism from Shang and Zhou dynasty bronzes, it evokes the rhythmic continuity found in the \u003ci data-path-to-node=\"7,0,0\" data-index-in-node=\"142\"\u003eClassic of Poetry\u003c\/i\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp data-path-to-node=\"7,1,0\"\u003e\u003cb data-path-to-node=\"7,1,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\"\u003eFloral Medallions:\u003c\/b\u003e Resembling the \"Precious Appearance Flower\" (\u003ci data-path-to-node=\"7,1,0\" data-index-in-node=\"64\"\u003eBaoxianghua\u003c\/i\u003e), these combine the fullness of Tang dynasty circular motifs with the airy elegance of Song literati painting, reflecting a reconstruction of traditional aesthetics during the early Republic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp data-path-to-node=\"8\"\u003e\u003cb data-path-to-node=\"8\" data-index-in-node=\"0\"\u003eThe Rarity of \"Spray-Printing\" on Jacquard\u003c\/b\u003e The spray-printing technique, introduced to China in the early 20th century, creates a misty, ink-wash effect that offers more depth than traditional woodblock printing. On this garment, the technique is applied over a jacquard fabric; orange-brown speckles emerge from the lake-blue base like the \"rust spots\" found in antique blue-and-white porcelain glazes—a visual resonance with descriptions in the \u003ci data-path-to-node=\"8\" data-index-in-node=\"447\"\u003eRecords of Ceramics\u003c\/i\u003e. The contrast between the rigid geometric jacquard and the ethereal spray-print creates a \"harmony of strength and softness\" that is exceedingly rare in extant Republic-era qipaos.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-path-to-node=\"9\"\u003e\u003cb data-path-to-node=\"9\" data-index-in-node=\"0\"\u003eThe Bell Sleeve: A Silhouette of Liberation\u003c\/b\u003e The \"Inverted Bell Sleeve\"—a hallmark of 1920s fashion—is described in historical records as \"curving like a bow.\" This silhouette aligned with the \"healthy and free\" aesthetic promoted by the \u003ci data-path-to-node=\"9\" data-index-in-node=\"237\"\u003eWomen's Journal\u003c\/i\u003e in Shanghai at the time, signaling the dawn of feminine liberation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-path-to-node=\"10\"\u003e\u003cb data-path-to-node=\"10\" data-index-in-node=\"0\"\u003eConclusion: The History of the Body\u003c\/b\u003e As art historian Wu Hung noted, \"Clothing is the history of the body.\" Every line on this qipao is a microcosm of social change: the spray-print marks the fusion of East-West technology, the bell sleeves reflect the tide of women’s emancipation, and the mottled colors act as the growth rings of time itself.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"深圳溯源","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51753385525540,"sku":null,"price":3694.0,"currency_code":"CAD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0835\/1360\/6436\/files\/3c3e6c65980ca6ca21043ce0769fe7d8.jpg?v=1768273590","url":"https:\/\/shenzhensuyuan.com\/en\/products\/sold-3","provider":"Shenzhen Suyuan","version":"1.0","type":"link"}