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60年代 - 法国进口葡萄紫刺绣蕾丝台湾产古董旗袍 | 1960s - A Vintage 1960s Taiwanese Cheongsam with French Grape-Purple Embroidered Lace
60年代 - 法国进口葡萄紫刺绣蕾丝台湾产古董旗袍 | 1960s - A Vintage 1960s Taiwanese Cheongsam with French Grape-Purple Embroidered Lace
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分享一件上世纪六十年代法国进口葡萄紫刺绣蕾丝台湾产古董旗袍。
这件古董旗袍的图案设计堪称“移步换景的花园”:
据《里昂纺织史》记载,
这件旗袍正如本雅明所言“灵光”之物,
🍇 The Glimmer of Lyonnais Lace: A Vintage 1960s Taiwanese Cheongsam with French Grape-Purple Embroidered Lace
The pattern design of this vintage cheongsam is a true "garden where every step changes the view" (移步换景的花园). It features the peony as the main motif, with rich, layered petals that achieve a three-dimensional effect through gradations of deep and light grape-purple, as if "dewdrops lightly cling to heavy rouge" (露珠轻坠胭脂重). Interspersed among the peonies are small white flowers and curling vines, creating a color contrast of "purple glow reflecting white jade" (紫霞映白璧).
According to the History of Lyon Textiles (里昂纺织史), the lace exported from France to Chinese-speaking regions in the 1960s was mostly produced in small, bespoke batches. As a high-end garment exported by Taiwan during the context of the "Cultural Cold War," it serves both as a vehicle for Oriental aesthetics and as a tangible witness to that special historical period.
This cheongsam is precisely the kind of object possessing an "aura" (灵光), as described by Walter Benjamin. In the delicate interplay between the transparency of the lace and the density of the embroidery, it captures the subtle tremors of the East-West cultural collision during the sixties. Its scarcity lies not just in its materials and craftsmanship, but more profoundly, in its status as "history you can wear."
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