深圳溯源
60年代 - 波斯涅槃·六十年代香港孔雀蓝嵌丝硬花扣线香绲古董旗袍 | 1960s - Persian Nirvana: A 1960s Hong Kong Vintage Cheongsam in Peacock Blue with Inlaid Hard Flower Buttons and Incense Stick Piping
60年代 - 波斯涅槃·六十年代香港孔雀蓝嵌丝硬花扣线香绲古董旗袍 | 1960s - Persian Nirvana: A 1960s Hong Kong Vintage Cheongsam in Peacock Blue with Inlaid Hard Flower Buttons and Incense Stick Piping
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六十年代香港古董旗袍:古波斯纹样的东方涅槃
当波斯细密画的瑰丽纹样邂逅东方旗袍的婉约身姿,
旗袍面料以孔雀蓝为底,织就古波斯特有的花卉纹样——
线香绲工艺如发丝般细腻,沿立领、斜襟、袖口蜿蜒而下,
此袍面料采用进口波斯纹样印花绸,仅供给高端旗袍作坊;
当霓裳轻曳,花纹在光影中流转,仿佛能听见丝绸摩擦时的沙沙声,
Oriental Nirvana of Persian Motifs: A 1960s Hong Kong Vintage Cheongsam
When the magnificent motifs of Persian miniature painting encounter the subtle grace of the Oriental cheongsam silhouette, this vintage robe from 1960s Hong Kong becomes a condensed silk epic. It unfolds a stunning tapestry of East-West aesthetic fusion, detailed within the fine veins of the incense stick piping (xiàn xiāng gǔn) and the intricate carving of the inlaid hard flower buttons (qiàn sī yìng huā kòu).
The cheongsam fabric features a peacock blue base, woven with unique ancient Persian floral patterns—within crimson rhombic frames (kāi guāng), scrolling lotus vines use tendrils as their structure, outlining the imagery of the eternal flower. Tiān Gōng Kāi Wù (The Exploitation of the Works of Nature) records: "Weaving methods rely on the intricate staggering of warp and weft for patterns to appear." This process transformed the passionate exuberance of Persian motifs into the reserved elegance of a Jiangnan woman.
The incense stick piping is as delicate as a strand of hair, winding down the stand collar, diagonal placket, and cuffs, resembling an invisible silk necklace adorning the pattern. The inlaid hard flower buttons are braided with real silk, and the button heads are carved into the shape of crab-apple blossoms (hăi táng huā), creating a mutual resonance with the fabric pattern: "buttons concealed within the flowers, flowers reflecting the button's spirit."
The fabric of this robe utilized imported Persian-patterned printed silk, which was only supplied to high-end cheongsam workshops. Furthermore, the combined craftsmanship of the incense stick piping and inlaid hard flower buttons required the labor of a senior embroideress for potentially a hundred days to complete. As stated in A Study of Ancient Chinese Costume: "The beauty of the cheongsam lies in the unity of material, craftsmanship, and meaning." This cheongsam not only carries the urban flair of 1960s Hong Kong but also witnesses the integration of textile techniques along the Silk Road—the romantic imagination of Persian motifs ultimately found its perfect home on Oriental silk.
When the iridescent garment sways gently and the patterns flow in the light, one can almost hear the rustling sound of the silk, a whisper of the years, narrating the timeless charm of an antique cheongsam traversing time and space. It is not merely a garment; it is a condensed history, a flowing art form, worthy of collection, appreciation, and narration.
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