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深圳溯源

60年代 - 星夜蓝笺·六十年代手绘金枝梅岭南派古董旗袍 | 1960s - Midnight Blue Canvas: 1960s Vintage Cheongsam with Hand-Painted Gold-Branch Plum Motif in Lingnan Style

60年代 - 星夜蓝笺·六十年代手绘金枝梅岭南派古董旗袍 | 1960s - Midnight Blue Canvas: 1960s Vintage Cheongsam with Hand-Painted Gold-Branch Plum Motif in Lingnan Style

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星夜蓝绢上的香江墨韵:六十年代香港手绘古董旗袍的艺术星辉在二十世纪六十年代的香江月下,这件星夜蓝旗袍以绢为笺,以彩为墨,绘就了一曲流动的东方诗画。深邃如夜空的靛蓝底色上,金线勾勒的梅枝斜倚横斜,粉金相间的花朵散作星雨,恰似苏轼笔下“竹外一枝斜更好”的孤高风骨,又暗合《诗经·何彼秾矣》“唐棣之华,鄂不韡韡”的婉转情思。香港作为中西文化交汇的前沿,将传统手绘技艺与岭南审美熔铸一体,成就了这件服饰艺术的瑰宝。

旗袍的纹样布局深谙中国画“疏可走马,密不透风”的章法。手绘金枝如行草般遒劲,自领口斜贯而下,在腰际收束,于裙摆处舒展成繁花簇拥。粉金花瓣的晕染需经数十次手工着色,边缘渐变的色泽层次尽显笔触温度,这种“以笔代针”的技法传承了宋代没骨画的精髓,岭南画派“折衷中西”的审美追求亦在此悄然交融。

从服饰史维度观之,这件旗袍堪称香港“黄金时代”的缩影。这种“寸锦寸金”的手绘旗袍,在1960年代仅香港少数工坊能制。

当张爱玲在《更衣记》中感叹“中国女子的线条美总在旗袍上得到最妥帖的呈现”时,这件手绘旗袍正以独特的艺术语言回应着这份赞美。它不仅是六十年代香港女性身份的象征,更是一卷凝固的东方美学史诗——在星夜蓝的绢面上,金枝摇曳着唐宋诗词的意境,粉花绽放着岭南手绘的精魂,而旗袍本身,便是那段香江岁月最温柔的注脚。

 

✨ The Artistic Starlight of Hong Kong Ink Rhyme on Midnight Blue Silk: A 1960s Hand-Painted Vintage Cheongsam

 

Under the moonlight of 1960s Hong Kong (香江), this midnight blue cheongsam, using silk as its canvas and color as its ink, paints a flowing Oriental poem. Upon the indigo base as deep as the night sky, gold-outlined plum branches lean and stretch diagonally, with pink and gold flowers scattered like stardust. This evokes the lonely, noble spirit of Su Shi's verse, "A single branch diagonally outside the bamboo is even better," and subtly aligns with the poignant sentiment of Classic of Poetry: He Bi Nong Yi: "The blooms of the cherry tree, how splendidly they flourish." Hong Kong, as the frontier where East and West intersect, fused traditional hand-painting techniques with Lingnan aesthetics to create this treasure of costume art.

The pattern composition of the cheongsam is deeply rooted in the Chinese painting principle of "loose enough for a horse to run through, dense enough to block the wind" (疏可走马,密不透风). The hand-painted gold branches, vigorous like running script calligraphy, angle down from the collar, tighten at the waist, and flourish into clusters of flowers at the skirt hem. The blending of the pink and gold petals requires dozens of stages of manual coloring, with the layered, gradient hues on the edges fully demonstrating the warmth of the brushstrokes. This "using the brush as a needle" technique inherits the essence of Song Dynasty mogu (boneless) painting, subtly fusing with the "synthesizing East and West" aesthetic pursuit of the Lingnan School of painting.

From the perspective of costume history, this cheongsam is a microcosm of Hong Kong's "Golden Age." This type of hand-painted cheongsam, where "every inch of silk is as precious as gold" (寸锦寸金), could only be produced by a few specialized workshops in Hong Kong during the 1960s.

When Eileen Chang lamented in Rondeau of Clothes (更衣记) that "the beauty of Chinese women's lines is always presented most appropriately in the cheongsam," this hand-painted robe responds to that praise with its unique artistic language. It is not just a symbol of the identity of Hong Kong women in the sixties, but a solidified epic of Oriental aesthetics—on the midnight blue silk, the gold branches sway with the spirit of Tang and Song poetry, the pink flowers bloom with the soul of Lingnan hand-painting, and the cheongsam itself is the most gentle footnote to that era in Hong Kong.

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