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60年代 - 香港产纯棉机器刺绣印花旗袍:凝驻东方美学的时光标本 | 1960s - A Time Specimen of Oriental Aesthetics: A Vintage Hong Kong Pure Cotton Machine-Embroidered Cheongsam

60年代 - 香港产纯棉机器刺绣印花旗袍:凝驻东方美学的时光标本 | 1960s - A Time Specimen of Oriental Aesthetics: A Vintage Hong Kong Pure Cotton Machine-Embroidered Cheongsam

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分享一件上世纪六十年代香港产纯棉机器刺绣印花旗袍:凝驻东方美学的时光标本。

在香江潮水与西洋风尚交织的六十年代,香港成为东方服饰美学的熔炉。这件清新淡雅的古董旗袍,以纯棉为笺、机器刺绣为笔,在米白色经纬间铺陈出一幅“花影摇曳,诗意栖居”的东方画卷。

旗袍通体以米白为底,似宣纸般澄澈空灵,其上遍布刺绣纹样,浅棕与橄榄绿交织的小花,花瓣层叠如含羞半绽的蔷薇,枝叶舒展似随风摇曳的藤蔓。其形态既非工笔花鸟的刻板写实,亦非抽象图案的疏离,而是以“写意”笔触捕捉自然生趣,恰如《诗经·郑风》“野有蔓草,零露漙兮”的野逸之美。白色环形小花如碎玉撒落,每环直径不过寸许,却以细密针脚勾勒出镂空质感,仿佛将唐诗中“水晶帘动微风起,满架蔷薇一院香”的意境化为刺绣语言。这种“环花相扣”的设计,暗合明清织锦中“连环纹”的吉祥寓意,象征绵延不绝的生命力。

无袖设计契合香港亚热带气候,高开衩与收腰剪裁则延续海派旗袍“紧身显曲线”的精髓。面料选用纯棉,既保留东方织物的温润质感,又以轻薄透气适应现代生活场景,堪称“旧纹新裁,东西合璧”的典范。

这件旗袍如同一枚凝固时光的琥珀,米白底色是岁月的留白,花卉刺绣是生命的咏叹。当指尖抚过棉质面料的肌理,目光掠过环形小花的镂空纹路,仿佛听见六十年代香江畔的晚风,吹动旗袍下摆时,那声轻轻的叹息——那是东方美学在时光长河中,最温柔的回响。

 

🧵 A Time Specimen of Oriental Aesthetics: A Vintage 1960s Hong Kong Pure Cotton Machine-Embroidered Cheongsam

 

In the 1960s, an era defined by the mingling of Hong Kong's tidal shifts and Western trends, the city became a crucible for Oriental apparel aesthetics. This fresh and elegant vintage cheongsam uses pure cotton as its paper and machine embroidery as its brush, laying out an Oriental scroll of "swaying flower shadows and poetic dwelling" across its off-white warp and weft.

The cheongsam is entirely based on an off-white ground, clear and ethereal like rice paper. It is covered with embroidered motifs: small flowers in light brown and olive green are intertwined, with layered petals like bashfully blooming wild roses. The branches and leaves unfurl like vines swaying in the wind. Their form is neither the stiff realism of meticulous bird-and-flower painting (gongbi) nor the detachment of abstract patterns. Instead, they capture the vitality of nature with "freehand" brushwork, akin to the rustic beauty of "There are creeping grasses in the field, with the glistening dew upon them" from the Classic of Poetry: Zheng Feng.

Small white ring-shaped flowers are scattered like broken jade, each ring barely an inch in diameter, yet outlined with dense stitches to create a hollowed-out texture (镂空质感). This effect seems to translate the poetic imagery of the Tang Dynasty—"The crystal curtain gently moves in the breeze, the courtyard is filled with the scent of climbing roses"—into the language of embroidery. This "interlocking ring flower" design subtly aligns with the auspicious meaning of the "linked ring pattern" in Ming and Qing brocade, symbolizing ceaseless vitality.

The sleeveless design suits Hong Kong's subtropical climate, while the high slit and cinched waist tailoring preserve the essence of the Shanghai-style cheongsam's "tight-fitting to display curves." The choice of pure cotton retains the warm texture of Oriental fabric, yet its lightness and breathability adapt to modern life scenarios, making it a prime example of "old pattern, new cut, a fusion of East and West."

This cheongsam is like an amber that has solidified time; the off-white base is the empty space of the years, and the floral embroidery is the ode to life. As one's fingertips trace the texture of the cotton fabric and the gaze sweeps across the openwork patterns of the ring flowers, one seems to hear the evening breeze of the 1960s blowing the hem of the cheongsam, that gentle sigh—it is the softest echo of Oriental aesthetics in the long river of time.

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