深圳溯源
60年代 - 墨舞清韵·钴蓝写意花卉斜纹古董旗袍 | 1960s - The Ink Scroll: Cobalt Floral Xieyi Qipao of the Sixties
60年代 - 墨舞清韵·钴蓝写意花卉斜纹古董旗袍 | 1960s - The Ink Scroll: Cobalt Floral Xieyi Qipao of the Sixties
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分享这件诞生于上世纪六十年代的斜纹印花香港产古董旗袍,
墨色为底,钴蓝写意,牡丹、芭蕉、
斜纹面料的肌理感,为写意花卉增添了“纸墨相发”的生动气韵。
当旗袍在时代浪潮中演变为符号,此件作品以“蓝墨对话”留存的,
(注:
Sharing this vintage qipao (cheongsam) from Hong Kong, produced in the 1960s with a twill print fabric—a true ink treasure solidified by time.
Against an ink-black base, cobalt blue and darker shades create an expressive, xieyi (freehand) rendering of flowers such as peonies, banana leaves, and narcissus. The brushstrokes reveal a heavy tension reminiscent of the "leaks in a crumbling wall" technique (wulouhen), while the subtle blending and ink wash variations along the petal edges echo the ancient stone-carving aesthetic (jinshi weidao) favored by artists like Wu Changshuo, who sought to "paint the spirit, not the form." Much like the early precedent set by artists designing qipaos for Liangyou Pictorial in the 1930s, this piece uses the fabric as rice paper (xuanzhi) and the body as a frame, capturing a golden moment of Shanghai-style art that appealed to both high and popular culture.
The tactile quality of the twill fabric enhances the vibrancy of the freehand florals, giving them a lifelike quality of "paper and ink resonating together." By the 1960s, the qipao had entered its minimalist phase, characterized by a high waist and narrow skirt. This piece features slightly trimmed shoulders and a precise hip-to-waist ratio, conforming accurately to the "hourglass silhouette." These "literati xieyi printed qipaos" emerged from the innovative practices of Shanghai silk houses like "Yunshang" and "Minguang": they translated traditional brocade and ink-wash painting techniques into a textile language, elevating the qipao from an "everyday garment" to a "mobile space for painting and calligraphy," becoming the perfect footnote to Shanghai culture's characteristic blend of "neither purely Chinese nor purely Western, neither entirely old nor entirely new."
As the qipao transformed into a cultural symbol amidst the waves of the era, this work, sustained by the "dialogue between blue and ink," preserves more than just the physical form; it retains that era's devout experimentation with the garment as an "artistic medium." As the painter wielded the brush upon the fabric and the woman used her body as the canvas, tradition and modernity, elegance and sensuality, achieved an eternal reconciliation within a field of freehand florals.
(Note: This qipao can be considered a firsthand physical specimen for studying the interaction between 1960s Shanghai-style fashion and literati aesthetics. Its style, fabric process, and tailoring characteristics hold significant academic and collection value.)
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